Civitavecchia, Italy

Full Transcript

Hello and welcome aboard the TSJ CruisePod – your journey beyond the waves.

I’m Thomas Sebastian Jensen, and this is the official podcast of the TSJ CruiseBlog.

Whether you’re listening from home, on the road, or maybe even from a balcony cabin somewhere at sea – I’m really glad you’re here.

In this episode, we’re continuing our Mediterranean Tour with our first port call: Civitavecchia, Italy – a city many cruise passengers know as the gateway to Rome, but one that also has its own harbor atmosphere, history, waterfront, and a few surprises waiting along the way.

Today’s episode takes us to the Italian coast, not far from Rome, but this time Rome itself was not the destination.

Civitavecchia is one of the most important cruise ports in the Mediterranean. For many guests, it is the starting point for excursions to the Eternal City, with its ancient ruins, famous churches, fountains, piazzas, and endless layers of history.

But a cruise day does not always go exactly as planned.

Originally, an excursion to the Etruscan towns of Tarquinia and Tuscania had been booked. That would have meant a day focused on ancient history, smaller towns, and a completely different side of Italy. But after boarding, we were informed that this excursion had unfortunately been cancelled.

So instead of heading inland, we stayed closer to the sea.

And sometimes, that is exactly what makes a cruise day interesting. You start with one plan, the plan changes, and suddenly the day becomes something else entirely.

After leaving the ship, we took the free port shuttle to the edge of Civitavecchia. From there, the idea was simple: take the day slowly, explore the city itself, and see what this port has to offer beyond its role as a gateway to Rome.

Civitavecchia may not have the fame of Rome, Florence, or Venice, but it is not just a place where cruise ships arrive and buses leave. It is a real coastal city, with everyday squares, streets, waterfront views, churches, museums, shops, and local life.

To get a first overview, we joined a sightseeing tour on a small open blue bus. It was a relaxed and convenient way to discover the town without having to plan every single step. The ride included commentary in several languages, including English, German, French, Spanish, and Italian, which added helpful background about the city, its history, and its importance as a cruise port.

One of the first places that gave a real impression of Civitavecchia was Piazza Calamatta.

This was not one of those overly polished tourist places that feel created only for visitors. Instead, it felt like an ordinary city square – local, practical, and part of daily life. And that made it interesting in its own way. It showed Civitavecchia not as a postcard fantasy, but as a working Italian port city.

Another important stop along the route was the Cathedral of St Francis of Assisi.

The cathedral stands quite centrally and gives the city a clear focal point. It is not just a landmark for visitors, but also part of the rhythm of local life. Later, the sightseeing tour would end near the cathedral, and that would make it one of the key places of the day.

The route also passed the National Archaeological Museum of Civitavecchia. Even as a brief stop, it added a different layer to the visit. Civitavecchia is often reduced to its function as the port for Rome, but the museum is a reminder that this city has a long history of its own.

That is something I always find interesting about cruise ports.

Some places are famous destinations in themselves. Others are known mainly because they connect you to somewhere else. But if you take the time to look a little closer, even those “gateway ports” often have their own stories, their own details, and their own atmosphere.

And Civitavecchia definitely has that.

The most pleasant part of the stop was probably the waterfront.

The Marina of Civitavecchia showed the city from its relaxed side. Boats, sea views, open space, and that simple feeling of being near the water. It was not spectacular in a dramatic way, but it was calm and enjoyable.

Another highlight was the Pirgo, an open area along the seafront. It felt spacious and scenic, the kind of place where you can easily imagine locals and visitors taking a walk, pausing for a moment, looking out over the sea, and enjoying a slower pace.

And that slower pace shaped much of this day.

This was not a port day full of major world-famous monuments. It was not a race from one attraction to the next. It was more of a quiet exploration, a day that came together because the original plan had changed.

But then, the weather changed as well.

The sightseeing bus tour finished back at the cathedral, and just as we got off, the rain began. At first, we still took a short look inside the church. A Mass had just taken place, so the atmosphere inside was calm and respectful.

After that, we continued along the shopping street, but the rain became stronger and stronger.

Rain can completely change the feeling of a port day. A waterfront that feels open and inviting in good weather can suddenly become less comfortable. Streets that might invite you to stroll become places where you start looking for cover. And instead of slowly exploring, you begin to think about where to wait, where to sit down, and whether it might be better to return to the ship.

Because of the rain, we stopped at a small covered ice cream café.

At first, that sounded like a good idea. A short break, something sweet, a dry place to sit, and maybe a small pause before deciding how to continue.

Unfortunately, that stop became the low point of the day.

For only seven scoops of ice cream for three people, we were charged 31 euros. And honestly, that felt like a clear tourist rip-off.

It is one of those moments that can change the mood of a visit. Not because of the money alone, but because of the feeling that comes with it. You are already dealing with bad weather, the original excursion has been cancelled, and then a simple ice cream stop leaves a bad aftertaste.

After that, the decision was quite easy.

Instead of staying longer in town, we made our way back to the shuttle and returned to the ship.

So, what remains from Civitavecchia?

Mixed impressions.

On the one hand, the day was not what had originally been planned. The excursion to Tarquinia and Tuscania was cancelled, the weather turned bad, and the ice cream café was definitely not a highlight.

On the other hand, the day also showed a more local and relaxed side of Civitavecchia. The small blue sightseeing bus was a good way to get an overview. The cathedral, the museum, the marina, and the Pirgo waterfront all gave the city its own identity.

And maybe that is the important lesson from this stop.

Civitavecchia is more than just the port for Rome. Of course, Rome is the big attraction nearby, and for many cruise passengers, it will always be the main reason to stop here. But if you stay in Civitavecchia itself, you can still find a quieter coastal city with history, sea views, and everyday Italian life.

It may not have been the most spectacular day of the Mediterranean Tour. It may not have been the smoothest one either.

But it was real.

A changed plan, a small city tour, a bit of history, a pleasant waterfront, sudden rain, one overpriced ice cream experience, and a return to the ship with mixed feelings.

And that, too, is part of cruising.

Not every port day becomes perfect. Not every stop becomes a highlight. But every stop becomes part of the journey.

In the next episode, we’ll continue with our next port call: Palermo, Italy.

So make sure to subscribe to the TSJ CruisePod, and join me again as we continue our Mediterranean Tour – city by city, port by port.

Until then: thanks for listening, fair winds, and I’ll see you beyond the waves.